Printing in ABS on the Monoprice MP Select Mini
Today I did my first successful ABS prints on the MP Select Mini.
The successful print was with SoliDoodle ABS Filament printed at 240C and the Bed at 70C. This was printed on the glass bed I wrote about previously with Elmers Washable Disappearing Purple Glue Stick applied to promote adhesion and I used a raft. I blocked the fan duct with masking tape to prevent warping. I also found I needed the fan set at 90% for the entire print to move some of the heat away from the heat block so the radiant heat from the block doesn't distort my overhangs.
Removing the print from the bed was easy. I slid a paring knife under the still-warm raft and it popped right off.
This part is a replacement door slider for my Brother's Arrow Brand metal shed. At 1.75mm layers, 4 Perimeters, 50% infill the part is much sturdier than the heavily weathered part it is replacing. These parts are commercially available at $12 for a set of four. I modeled the part in Fusion 360 and the STL is available on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2377373
I had several issues getting the ABS to stick, and I won't consider the problem fully resolved until I can print without the raft. I tried a number of combinations that did not work for me.
* The Control panel only lets you set the temperature to 60C, but you can set it higher than this via G-Code.
** The printer took forever to reach the 80C bed temperature. I helped it along by putting a piece of cloth (the square pad you use to fetch hot things from the oven) on the bed while it was preheating, then pulling it off as it started to print. If future testing shows that higher temperatures help with this I'll have to insulate the bed.
The successful print was with SoliDoodle ABS Filament printed at 240C and the Bed at 70C. This was printed on the glass bed I wrote about previously with Elmers Washable Disappearing Purple Glue Stick applied to promote adhesion and I used a raft. I blocked the fan duct with masking tape to prevent warping. I also found I needed the fan set at 90% for the entire print to move some of the heat away from the heat block so the radiant heat from the block doesn't distort my overhangs.
Removing the print from the bed was easy. I slid a paring knife under the still-warm raft and it popped right off.
This part is a replacement door slider for my Brother's Arrow Brand metal shed. At 1.75mm layers, 4 Perimeters, 50% infill the part is much sturdier than the heavily weathered part it is replacing. These parts are commercially available at $12 for a set of four. I modeled the part in Fusion 360 and the STL is available on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2377373
I had several issues getting the ABS to stick, and I won't consider the problem fully resolved until I can print without the raft. I tried a number of combinations that did not work for me.
- 3M Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape #2020CG 240C Ext, 50C Bed
- Masking Tape, 240C/60C
- Masking Tape, 240C/70C*
- Masking Tape and Elmer's Washable disappearing Purple Glue Stick (Amazon Link) 240C/50C
- Masking Tape and Glue Stick 240C/60C
- Masking Tape and Glue Stick 240C/70C*
- Masking Tape and Glue Stick 240C/80C**
- Bare Glass 240/70C*
* The Control panel only lets you set the temperature to 60C, but you can set it higher than this via G-Code.
** The printer took forever to reach the 80C bed temperature. I helped it along by putting a piece of cloth (the square pad you use to fetch hot things from the oven) on the bed while it was preheating, then pulling it off as it started to print. If future testing shows that higher temperatures help with this I'll have to insulate the bed.
Comments